brown and brown chevrolet|used cars|bourbonnais used cars|bourbonnais|60914|

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Brown and brown is a Chevrolet Dealer, Chevy Dealer, Hyundai Dealer, Used Car Dealer, RV Dealer, as well as a online new car dealer and a used cars online dealer. We serve our area, frankfort, Joliet, Matteson, Peotone, Tinley Park, Mokena and Chicago.

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”Big Sales Event Going On Now”! During our Model End Clearance Sale you will pay less for your New Chevrolet or New Hyundai than ever before while supplies last! Kelly Blue Book, Consumer Reports, Edmunds Auto Guide, Car and Driver, Motor week all rate Chevrolet and Hyundai as the Manufacturers to watch! Brown and Brown Chevrolet Hyundai RV has a rating of A+ with the Better Business Bureau because we help people buy cars that they want.
    Brown and Brown Chevrolet Hyundai RV welcomes you from our Bradley, Bourbonnais, Momence, Peotone, Frankfort, Herscher, Kankakee, Beecher area(s). We have all the
    2009 Chevy models 2009 Hyundai models, 2010 Chevy models and 2010 Hyundai models. Driving in a sports car, sport utility vehicle, minivan to a full size truck for the New Year while saving money on maintenance and gas. We offer the most comprehensive warranty in the market today.
    Brown and Brown Chevrolet Hyundai RV offers New Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette, Aveo, Cobalt, HHR, Impala, Malibu, Avalanche, Colorado, Silverado, Equinox, Tahoe, Traverse, Suburban, Express, Chevrolet Hybrids, Volt, Commercial Truck and Commercial Vans.
    Brown and Brown Chevrolet Hyundai RV offers New Hyundai Accent, Elantra, Elantra Touring, Sonata, Azera, Genesis, Genesis Coupe, Tuscon, Sante Fe, and Veracruz.
    Brown and Brown Chevrolet Hyundai RV offers New Recreational Vehicles for Rentals, Sales or Leasing. Some Brands are New Heartland, Kropf, Open Range, Palomino, Starcraft just to name a few. Motor Homes, Motor Coach, Pop Up Campers to Travel Trailers are all on display.
    Brown and Brown Chevrolet Hyundai RV Used Car and Used Truck Departments offer a variety of Pre Owned Used Cars, Used Sport Cars, Used Minivans, Used SUV, Used Trucks,
    Used Commercial Vans and Used Recreational Vehicles. Some brands to view are Used Chevrolet, Used Hyundai, Used Nissan, Used Honda, Used GMC, Used Ford, Used Toyota, Used Cadillac, Used Dodge Ram, Used Jeep, Used Chrysler, Used Lincoln, Used Mazda,
    Used Volkswagen, Used Mitsubishi, Used Infinity, Used Buick, Used Pontiac, Used Acura, Used BMW and Used Mercedes.
    Brown and Brown Chevrolet Hyundai RV has contact us for more questions about all of our New Chevrolet, New Hyundai, New Recreational Vehicles, Used Cars and Used Trucks or simply map out from Bradley il 60915, Bourbonnais il 60914, Momence il 60954, Peotone il 60468, Herscher il 60941, Beecher il 60401, Wilmington il 60481, Frankfort il 60423, Coal City il 60416, Lowell in 46356, Joliet il 60435, Matteson il 60443, Tinley Park il 60477, Highland in 46322, Peoria il 61615, Mattoon il 61938, Bloomington il 61704, Decatur il 62521, Springfield il 62703, Chicago il 60601, Orland Park il 6062, Oak Lawn il 60453, Lansing il 60438, Calumet City il 60409, New Lenox il 60451, Lockport il 60441, Crete il 60417, Monee il 60449, Manteno il 60950, Rantoul il 61866, Normal il 61761, Watseka il 60970, Pontiac il 61764, Hoopeston il 60942, Danville il 61832, Chicago Heights il 60441, Streator il 61364,
    Morris il 60450, Minooka il 60447, Channahon il 60410, Manhattan il 60442, University Park il 60466, Dwight il 60420, Braidwood il 60408, Shorewood il 60436, Plainfield il 60544,
    Bolingbrook il 60440, Schererville in 46375, Merrillville in 46410 and Crown Point in 46307.
    We serve all of Chicagoland and Chicago Suburbs.
    Brown and Brown Chevrolet Hyundai RV offers a Factory Specialize Chevrolet Technical Team and Hyundai Specialize Team to service your new car or used car. Our GM GoodWrench Service Department is hear to serve all your automobile needs. The Parts Department has all Factory Parts, OEM, etc... from oil changes to major engine repair our Service and Parts Departments can serve you properly.
    aveo, aveo sedan, aveo5, camaro, camaro s, camaro ss, cobalt coupe, cobalt sedan, corvette, corvette convertible, corvette grand sport, 2010 corvette z06, 2010 corvette zr1, 2010 impala, 2010 malibu, avalanche, 2010 colorado, silverado 1500, silverado 2500hd,
    silverado 3500hd, 2010 equinox, hhr, hhr panel, suburban 3/4 ton, suburban 1/2 ton, tahoe,
    2010 traverse, express, 2011 cruze, 2011 volt, 2011 spark, orlando concept.
    The GM Certified Used
    12-Month/12,000-Mile*
    Bumper-to-Bumper Warranty.
    Our competition can't match our coverage. And when you add in the 100,000-Mile/5-Year** Powertrain Limited Warranty, it only gets better. Enjoy further protection for your vehicle and greater peace of mind for you. Start shopping now.
    100,000-Mile/5-Year* Powertrain
    Limited Warranty
    Now, when you purchase a 2005 through 2010 model year GM Certified Used Vehicle, it comes with a transferable 100,000-Mile/5-Year* Powertrain Limited Warranty with no deductible. It's a whole new level of value, confidence and protection.
    * Transferable to subsequent owners
    * $0 deductible
    * Roadside assistance and courtesy transportation
    We also offer 24-hour roadside assistance and courtesy transportation for the life of your 100,000-Mile/5-Year* Powertrain Limited Warranty (based on original in-service date). Around the clock and around the country, your GM Certified Used Vehicle comes with helping hands.
    117-Point Inspection
    All GM Certified Used Vehicles must undergo our rigorous 117-Point inspection process. Conducted by GM-trained technicians, each inspection is required to adhere to strict, factory-set standards to ensure that every vehicle's engine, chassis and body is in excellent condition.
    GM Certified Used Vehicle 117-Point Inspection
    *Not every inspection point available on every model
    This is the 117 point inspection List Gm goes over.
    *
    ROAD TEST
    1. CHECK VEHICLE HISTORY (GM VIS) AND CARFAX (VHR) OR SIMILAR
    2. CHECK FOR OPEN SAFETY CAMPAIGNS
    3. OWNERS MANUAL/WARRANTY BOOKLET PRESENT
    4. SEAT BELTS/RETRACTORS/AIR BAGS (WEAR, OPERATION)
    5. MIRRORS (OPERATION, HEAT, INSIDE-OUTSIDE)
    6. INDICATOR LIGHTS/GAUGES/WARNING TONES (OPERATION, LIGHTS, CLOCK)
    7. ENGINE START/IDLE (COLD, WARM)
    8. ENGINE OPERATION/PERFORMANCE/ACCELERATION (AT NORMAL TEMP.)
    9. SHIFTING/AUTOMATIC/MANUAL (TRANSMISSION, CLUTCH)
    10. ANTI-SKID/TRACTION CONTROL (OPERATION)
    11. BRAKING/ANTI-LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM (STRAIGHT STOP/ANTI-LOCK OPERATION IF EQUIPPED)
    12. STEERING/ALIGNMENT (EASE, NOISE, STEERING WHEEL CENTERED, ALIGNMENT)
    13. BODY/CHASSIS INTEGRITY (NOISE/VIBRATION/HARSHNESS)
    14. TRANSFER CASE (OPERATION, F/RWD, 4W, AWD)
    15. CRUISE CONTROL (HOLD, ACCELERATION, CANCEL)
    16. WINDSHIELD WIPERS/WASHERS (OPERATION/BLADES WIPE CLEAN W/O STREAKS)
    17. SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER (OPERATIONAL)
    18. TILT-WHEEL/TELESCOPING (OPERATION)
    19. HEATER/AIR CONDITIONING (BLOWER, CONTROLS)
    20. HORN (OPERATION, FUNCTION)
    21. CONFIRM AUTO STOP and AUTO RESTART (HYBRID ONLY)
    *
    FUNCTIONAL
    22. ONSTAR (OPERATIONAL)
    23. KEY(S)/KEY FOB/REMOTE START (FUNCTIONAL)
    24. REAR DEFOGGER (OPERATION)
    25. LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT (SPARE, AIR PRESSURE, TOOLS)
    26. CONVERTIBLE TOP/BOOT COVER (OPERATION, CONDITION)
    27. INTERIOR LIGHTS (MAP LIGHTS/DASH LIGHTS)
    28. EXTERIOR LIGHTS/FOG LAMPS (HEADLIGHTS, DRLS, BRAKE AND HIGH MOUNT)
    29. DOORS/DOOR LOCKS (POWER LOCK OPERATION)
    30. WEATHER STRIPPING (CONDITION)
    31. SEATS/CHILD SAFETY SEATS and MOUNTINGS (OPERATION, HEAT)
    32. FUEL DOOR/TRUNK/HOOD/HATCH RELEASE (OPERATION)
    33. WINDOWS/POWER/SWING-OUT (OPERATION, ALL SWITCHES-FULL TRAVEL)
    34. ALARM/TELEPHONE (OPERATION, REMOTE)
    35. POWER OUTLET(S)/CIGARETTE LIGHTER (OPERATION, LIGHTER)
    36. PARKING BRAKE (OPERATION)
    37. SUN/MOON ROOF (OPERATION, CONDITION, NO LEAKS)
    38. OPTIONS/ACCESSORIES/OFF-ROAD/ROOF MARKER LAMPS (OPERATION)
    39. AUDIO SYSTEM/XM RADIO (OPERATION, RADIO, TAPE, CD, SPEAKERS, ANTENNA)
    40. NAVIGATION SYSTEM OPERATION AND DVD PRESENT (OPERATION)
    *
    UNDER HOOD
    41. VISUAL (LOOSE/MISSING COMPONENTS, LEAKS, LABELS, DECALS)
    42. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM/BATTERY/STARTER (BATTERY, CABLES, BELTS, CHARGE)
    43. ENGINE COOLING/RADIATOR/FAN/FAN CLUTCH (LEVEL, HOSES, CONDITION)
    44. POWER STEERING SYSTEM (LEVEL, PUMP, LINES)
    45. BRAKE SYSTEM (FLUID LEVEL, MASTER CYLINDER, LINES)
    46. IGNITION SYSTEM (WIRES, CONDITION, ROUTING)
    47. FUEL SYSTEM (LINES, LEAKS, CONNECTION)
    48. VACUUM SYSTEM (HOSES, CONDITION)
    49. A/C COMPRESSOR/DRIVE BELT (OPERATION, CONDITION)
    50. BELTS/SERPENTINE (TENSION, WEAR)
    *
    UNDER VEHICLE
    51. VISUAL (BODY, LOWER BODY, UNDERBODY)
    52. FRAME (NO SIGNS OF PREVIOUS REPAIR/DAMAGE)
    53. EXHAUST SYSTEM (PIPES, CONVERTER, MUFFLER, SHIELDING)
    54. BRAKE PADS, SHOES (CONDITION, LINING)
    55. CALIPERS, ROTORS, DRUMS (CONDITION)
    56. BRAKE HYDRAULICS (LEVEL, LINES, HOSES)
    57. TIRES (TREAD DEPTH, TYPE, SIZE, MATCHING BRAND, NO PLUGS, PSI)
    58. WHEELS/LUG NUT TORQUE/TIRE PSI (OEM, MATCHING BRAND/TYPE)
    59. SHOCK ABSORBERS/STRUTS (OPERATION, LEAKS, ETC.)
    60. SPRINGS/SWAY BARS/TOW HOOK (MOUNT, BUSHINGS, TORQUE TO SPECS, ETC.)
    61. CONTROL ARMS (CONDITION, MOUNT, BUSHINGS)
    62. STEERING/LINKAGE (TIE ROD/ENDS, LINKAGE)
    63. ENGINE/TRANSMISSION/TRANSFER CASE and MOUNTING (LEAKS)
    64. CLUTCH (ADJUST FLUID LEVEL)
    65. DRIVELINE/DRIVESHAFT/AXLES/UNIVERSAL JOINTS (CONDITION, OPERATION)
    66. AXLES/DIFFERENTIALS/AIR SUSPENSION AND COMPRESSOR (LEAKS, CV JOINTS)
    67. GEAR/RACK and PINION (LEAKS, MOUNTING)
    68. PARKING BRAKE CABLE (CONDITION, OPERATION, FRAYING)
    *
    EXTERIOR
    69. UNDER HOOD (FINISH, INSULATION, DECALS)
    70. FRONT BUMPER (FASCIA, GUARDS, FINISH)
    71. GRILLE (HEADLIGHTS, OTHER LIGHTS, EMBLEMS)
    72. HOOD (EMBLEMS, FINISH, CHIPS, TRIM, ALIGNMENT)
    73. LEFT FRONT FENDER (FINISH, TRIM)
    74. LEFT FRONT DOOR (FINISH, TRIM, ALIGNMENT, EASE OF MOVEMENT)
    75. LEFT REAR DOOR (FINISH, TRIM, ALIGNMENT, EASE OF MOVEMENT)
    76. LEFT REAR FENDER (FINISH, TRIM)
    77. TRUNK LID/TRUCK BED/BEDLINER (FINISH, TRIM)
    78. REAR BUMPER (FASCIA, GUARDS, FINISH)
    79. RIGHT REAR FENDER (FINISH, TRIM)
    80. RIGHT REAR DOOR (FINISH, TRIM, ALIGNMENT, EASE OF MOVEMENT)
    81. RIGHT FRONT DOOR (FINISH, TRIM, ALIGNMENT, EASE OF MOVEMENT)
    82. RIGHT FRONT FENDER (FINISH, TRIM)
    83. ROOF (FINISH, TRIM)
    84. GLASS (CRACKS, CHIPS, SCRATCHES, PITTING)
    85. WHEELS/WHEELCOVERS/TRIM RINGS/CENTER CAPS (SCRATCHES, PITTING)
    *
    INTERIOR
    86. INSTRUMENT PANEL/COMPASS (CONDITION, CONTROLS)
    87. CLOCK/TIMER (CHECK, RESET)
    88. DRIVER/PASSENGER SEATS/HEAD RESTS (CUSHIONS, TRIM, SAFETY BELT OPERATION)
    89. REAR SEAT/HEAD RESTS (CUSHIONS, TRIM, CONDITION, OPERATION, SAFETY BELT OPERATION)
    90. HEATED/COOLED SEAT (OPERATION)
    91. DRIVER DOOR (CONTROLS, TRIM, CONDITION)
    92. FRONT PASSENGER DOOR (CUSHIONS, TRIM, CONDITION)
    93. FRONT CARPET and FLOOR MATS (PRESENCE, CONDITION, WEAR)
    94. CONSOLE/COMPARTMENT LID FRONT and REAR (OPERATION, CONDITION)
    95. LEFT REAR DOOR/QUARTER TRIM (CONTROLS, TRIM, CONDITION)
    96. RIGHT REAR DOOR/QUARTER TRIM (CONTROLS, TRIM, CONDITION)
    97. REAR CARPET and MATS (PRESENCE, CONDITION, WEAR)
    98. HEADLINER/OVERHEAD CONSOLE/VISORS (CONDITION, OPERATION)
    99. LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT/CARGO AREA/SPARE TIRE (TRIM, JACK, LIGHT TOOLS,CARGO NET/SHADE)
    100. PACKAGE TRAY (CONDITION)
    *
    MAINTAINANCE
    101. LUBE, CHANGE OIL AND FILTER REQUIRED
    102. INSPECT/CLEAN AIR FILTER/ CABIN FILTER
    103. INSPECT/CHANGE ALL OTHER FILTERS (PER MANUFACTURER'S SCHEDULE )
    104. INSPECT/TOP-OFF FLUIDS (COOL, BRAKE, STEERING, TRANS., DIFF., WASHER)
    105. EMISSION/DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (MEET STATE AND LOCAL STDS.)
    106. FUEL LEVEL (RECOMMEND FULL TANK)
    *
    INTERIOR DETAILING
    107. CLEAN INSTRUMENT PANEL/COVER PAD SURFACE/ASHTRAYS/PACKAGE SHELF
    108. VACUUM AND CLEAN CARPET/TRUNK/PASSENGER COMPARTMENT/CARGO AREA
    109. CLEAN GLASS SURFACES
    110. CLEAN HEADLINER/SEATS/INTERIOR CLOTH TRIM
    *
    EXTERIOR DETAILING
    111. CLEAN ENGINE/COMPARTMENT
    112. RECONDITION/TOUCH-UP MINOR SURFACE SCRATCHES
    113. REMOVE TAR AND ROAD OIL
    114. WASH/WAX (BODY, WHEELS/COVERS, TIRES)
    *
    HYBRID VEHICLES
    115. HYBRID BATTERY (INSPECT AIR INTAKE)
    116. BATTERY ENERGY CONTROL MODULE (CHECK USING SCAN TOOL)
    117. STARTER/GENERATOR CONTROL MODULE (CHECK FOR CODES AND SOFTWARE UPDATES)
    Vehicle History Report
    We offer a detailed vehicle history report for every vehicle we sell—so you don't have to worry about major problems like accidents, fires or hidden titles. CARFAX, the most trusted name in vehicle history reports, is the preferred supplier of GM Certified Used Vehicle history reports.
    Find your Vehicle Now
    Largest Selection Of Certified
    Used Vehicles in the Country
    GM Certified Used Vehicles is proud to offer you the largest selection of certified used vehicles in the country from over 3,500 GM Certified Dealers. From trucks to SUV's to sedans to coupes, we've got the award-winning vehicle you've been dreaming of.
    Some of our most recent awards:
    The Chevrolet Malibu was named 2008 North American Car of the Year at the North American International Auto Show. That award is given and judged by automotive journalists.
    The new Chevrolet Malibu and Silverado led the midsize car and large pickup segments in the 2008 J. D. Power and Associates Initial Quality Study (IQS). The Pontiac Grand Prix also received the highest ranking in the large car segment in the study.
    In 2008, R.L. Polk and Co., awarded General Motors the Overall Manufacturer award for owner loyalty for a record eighth consecutive year. GM also secured owner loyalty awards for the Chevrolet Suburban, Silverado and Impala and Pontiac Solstice for the 2007 model year.
    GM is the only U.S.-based company offering a B-class (subcompact) car, the Chevy Aveo. The Pontiac G3 joins the Aveo in 2009.
    The 2007 Chevy Silverado was named the 2007 Motor Trend Truck of the Year as well as the North American Truck of the Year at the 2007 North American International Auto Show.
    And GM offers 18 vehicles with an EPA highway fuel economy rating of 30 mpg or better, more than any competitor, domestic or import.
    Introducing Financing That Fits
    With access to hundreds of banks — all competing to get you the best rate possible. Even with no down payment for qualified buyers.
    * See Current Offers and Incentive
    Chevrolet
    Chevrolet
    When it comes to taglines, General Motors' Chevrolet brand takes the cake. Over the years, phrases such as ”An American Revolution” and ”Like a Rock” have become synonymous with everything from the Chevy Impala to the Chevrolet Silverado.
    Behind that marketing buzz is a broad swath of vehicles addressing nearly every automotive need. In addition to the Silverado, the Chevrolet truck lineup consists of a Silverado hybrid variant as well as the versatile Chevy Avalanche and smaller Colorado pickup. Large SUVs like the Chevrolet Tahoe and Chevrolet Suburban remain popular with families, whereas efficiency-minded shoppers gravitate towards the Chevrolet Malibu and Chevrolet Cobalt. And for the enthusiast, long live the Chevrolet Corvette and reincarnated Chevrolet Camaro.
    With prices ranging from about $12,000 for the Chevrolet Aveo to well over $100,000 for a Corvette Z06, there is indeed a Chevy for every budget, but it requires more than competitive pricing to rise above rides such as the Toyota Camry, Honda Accord, and Ford F-150, just to name a few. For that reason and more, the newest crop of Chevy vehicles demonstrates a renewed focus on quality, one backed by a 100,000-mile warranty.
    Chevrolet History
    Chevrolet
    When it comes to Americana, nothing beats baseball, apple pie, and a Chevrolet. At least that used to be the case, before sluggers used steroids, apple pie was deemed a contributor to childhood obesity, and import brands grabbed the lion's share of the auto market. Be that as it may, Chevy remains an integral part of American car culture.
    Over the past 90 years or so, GM's bowtie brand has been applauded for selling some of the most recognizable cars in our country's automotive history. The utility vehicle we know today as the Chevrolet Suburban originated in 1935 as the Suburban Carryall; the unmistakable Chevrolet Corvette, the first mass-produced vehicle using plastic body panels, began its life in 1953; today's family-friendly Malibu sedan can be traced back, if in name only, to the first Chevrolet Malibu in 1964; and in 1967, the Chevrolet Camaro was created as an answer to the incredibly popular Ford Mustang. Of course there have been other Chevrolets worthy of mention, including the Chevy Impala and Chevy El Camino, though many of us would like to forget about examples such as the Chevrolet Chevette and Chevrolet Citation. Interestingly, GM formed an alliance in the 1980s with its primary Japanese rival, Toyota, and sold a jointly-built vehicle as the Chevrolet Nova. That car was mixed in with a number of lackluster vehicles like the Chevy Cavalier and the S-10 Blazer, each since improved upon and replaced by the Chevrolet Cobalt and Chevrolet Trailblazer.
    Today, those models space on dealers' lots with a Chevrolet truck lineup consisting of the midsize Chevrolet Colorado pickup, the Chevrolet Silverado, and the handy Chevrolet Avalanche; the Trailblazer serves in the company of the Chevrolet Tahoe and crossovers including the Chevrolet Equinox and Chevrolet Traverse. The Chevrolet Aveo and Aveo5 are Chevy's answers to small cars like the Toyota Yaris, while the Chevrolet HHR shares its retro theme with the Chrysler PT Cruiser.
    Over the past few years, the goal for Chevrolet has been to deliver cars, trucks and SUVs that exhibited greater quality and innovation than what previous owners had grown to expect. As a result, redesigned versions of models including the Chevrolet Silverado and Chevrolet Malibu offer improved fit and finish as well as hybrid variants. A 100,000-mile powertrain warranty backs it all up.
    That heightened focus on quality is due to continue with the launch of two small, efficient new Chevrolet models: the Chevrolet Cruze, a four-door sedan that offers a smaller footprint than the Chevy Malibu; and the highly-anticipated Chevrolet Volt, an electric vehicle designed to cover a 40-mile daily commute without using a drop of gasoline.
    2010 Chevrolet Avalanche 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Avalanche Crew Cab Pickup Truck
    LS 63.3" 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$35,725
    LS 63.3" 	4WD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$38,775
    LT 63.3" 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$38,830
    LT 63.3" 	4WD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$41,880
    LTZ 63.3" 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$45,815
    LTZ 63.3" 	4WD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$48,865
    2010 Chevrolet Aveo 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Aveo Sedan
    LS 	FWD 	1.6L I4 	Manual 	30 mpg 	$11,965
    1LT 	FWD 	1.6L I4 	Manual
    Auto 	30 mpg 	$14,100
    2LT 	FWD 	1.6L I4 	Manual
    Auto 	30 mpg 	$15,365
    2010 Chevrolet Aveo Sedan (5 Dr Hatchback)
    Aveo5 LS 	FWD 	1.6L I4 	Manual 	30 mpg 	$12,115
    Aveo5 1LT 	FWD 	1.6L I4 	Manual
    Auto 	30 mpg 	$14,250
    Aveo5 2LT 	FWD 	1.6L I4 	Manual
    Auto 	30 mpg 	$15,365
    2010 Chevrolet Camaro 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Camaro Coupe
    LS 	RWD 	3.6L V6 	Manual
    Auto 	21 mpg 	$22,680
    1LT 	RWD 	3.6L V6 	Manual
    Auto 	21 mpg 	$23,880
    2LT 	RWD 	3.6L V6 	Manual
    Auto 	21 mpg 	$26,875
    1SS 	RWD 	6.2L V8 	Manual
    Auto 	19 mpg 	$30,745
    2SS 	RWD 	6.2L V8 	Manual
    Auto 	19 mpg 	$33,745
    2010 Chevrolet Cobalt 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Cobalt Coupe
    XFE 	FWD 	2.2L I4 	Manual 	30 mpg 	$14,990
    LS 	FWD 	2.2L I4 	Manual
    Auto 	30 mpg 	$15,670
    LT 	FWD 	2.2L I4 	Manual
    Auto 	30 mpg 	$16,470
    SS 	FWD 	2.0L I4 T 	Manual 	25 mpg 	$24,535
    2010 Chevrolet Cobalt Sedan
    XFE 	FWD 	2.2L I4 	Manual 	30 mpg 	$14,990
    LS 	FWD 	2.2L I4 	Manual
    Auto 	30 mpg 	$15,670
    LT 	FWD 	2.2L I4 	Manual
    Auto 	30 mpg 	$16,470
    2010 Chevrolet Colorado 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Colorado Regular Cab Pickup Truck
    Work Truck 72.8" 	RWD 	2.9L I4
    3.7L I5 	Manual
    Auto 	21 mpg 	$16,985
    LT1 72.8" 	RWD 	2.9L I4
    3.7L I5 	Manual
    Auto 	21 mpg 	$18,110
    Work Truck 72.8" 	4WD 	2.9L I4
    3.7L I5 	Manual
    Auto 	20 mpg 	$20,490
    LT1 72.8" 	4WD 	2.9L I4
    3.7L I5 	Manual
    Auto 	20 mpg 	$21,615
    2010 Chevrolet Colorado Extended Cab Pickup Truck
    Work Truck 72.8" 	RWD 	2.9L I4
    3.7L I5 	Manual
    Auto 	21 mpg 	$19,230
    LT1 72.8" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    2.9L I4
    3.7L I5 	Manual
    Auto 	21 mpg 	$20,685
    Work Truck 72.8" 	4WD 	2.9L I4
    3.7L I5 	Manual
    Auto 	20 mpg 	$22,530
    LT1 72.8" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    2.9L I4
    3.7L I5 	Manual
    Auto 	20 mpg 	$23,785
    LT2 72.8" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    3.7L I5 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$25,025
    LT3 72.8" 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$26,215
    LT2 72.8" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    3.7L I5 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$28,075
    2010 Chevrolet Colorado Crew Cab Pickup Truck
    LT1 61.1" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    2.9L I4
    3.7L I5 	Auto 	21 mpg 	$23,785
    LT2 61.1" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    3.7L I5 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$26,355
    LT1 61.1" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    3.7L I5 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$27,395
    LT3 61.1" 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$27,545
    LT2 61.1" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    3.7L I5 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$28,915
    2010 Chevrolet Corvette 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Corvette Coupe
    Base 	RWD 	6.2L V8 	Manual
    Auto 	19 mpg 	$48,930
    GS 	RWD 	6.2L V8 	Manual
    Auto 	19 mpg 	$54,770
    Z06 	RWD 	7.0L V8 	Manual 	18 mpg 	$74,285
    ZR1 	RWD 	6.2L V8 S 	Manual 	16 mpg 	$106,880
    2010 Chevrolet Corvette Convertible
    Base 	RWD 	6.2L V8 	Manual
    Auto 	19 mpg 	$53,580
    GS 	RWD 	6.2L V8 	Manual
    Auto 	19 mpg 	$58,580
    2011 Chevrolet Cruze 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2011 Chevrolet Cruze Sedan
    Base 	FWD 	2.2L I4 	Manual 	N/A 	$15,100
    2010 Chevrolet Equinox 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Equinox SUV
    LS 	FWD 	2.4L I4 	Auto 	26 mpg 	$22,615
    LT1 	FWD 	2.4L I4
    3.0L V6 	Auto
    Auto 	26 mpg 	$23,535
    LS 	AWD 	2.4L I4 	Auto 	23 mpg 	$24,365
    LT1 	AWD 	2.4L I4
    3.0L V6 	Auto
    Auto 	23 mpg 	$25,285
    LT2 	FWD 	2.4L I4
    3.0L V6 	Auto
    Auto 	26 mpg 	$25,620
    LT2 	AWD 	2.4L I4
    3.0L V6 	Auto
    Auto 	23 mpg 	$27,370
    LTZ 	FWD 	2.4L I4
    3.0L V6 	Auto
    Auto 	26 mpg 	$28,220
    LTZ 	AWD 	2.4L I4
    3.0L V6 	Auto
    Auto 	23 mpg 	$29,970
    2010 Chevrolet Express 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Express Minivan/Van
    LS 1500 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	14 mpg 	$28,515
    LS 2500 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$30,020
    LS 1500 	AWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	14 mpg 	$32,070
    LS 3500 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$32,315
    LS 3500 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$34,185
    2010 Chevrolet Express 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Express Minivan/Van
    LS 1500 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	14 mpg 	$28,515
    LS 2500 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$30,020
    LS 1500 	AWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	14 mpg 	$32,070
    LS 3500 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$32,315
    LS 3500 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$34,185
    2010 Chevrolet Express Cargo 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Express Cargo Minivan/Van
    1500 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    4.3L V6 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$24,655
    2500 	RWD 	4.8L V8
    6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$25,775
    2500 	RWD 	4.8L V8
    6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$27,635
    3500 	RWD 	4.8L V8
    6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$29,095
    1500 	AWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	15 mpg 	$29,705
    3500 	RWD 	4.8L V8
    6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$29,980
    2010 Chevrolet Express Cargo 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet HHR 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet HHR Wagon (SUV)
    LS 	FWD 	2.2L I4 	Manual 	26 mpg 	$18,720
    Panel LS 	FWD 	2.2L I4 	Manual 	26 mpg 	$19,030
    LT 	FWD 	2.4L I4
    2.2L I4 	Manual
    Auto 	26 mpg 	$19,720
    Panel LT 	FWD 	2.4L I4
    2.2L I4 	Manual
    Auto 	26 mpg 	$20,030
    SS 	FWD 	2.0L I4 T 	Manual
    Auto 	24 mpg 	$26,255
    2010 Chevrolet Impala 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Impala Sedan
    LS 	FWD 	3.5L V6 	Auto 	22 mpg 	$23,890
    LT 	FWD 	3.5L V6 	Auto 	22 mpg 	$25,055
    LTZ 	FWD 	3.9L V6 	Auto 	21 mpg 	$29,630
    2010 Chevrolet Malibu 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Malibu Sedan
    LS 	FWD 	2.4L I4 	Auto 	25 mpg 	$21,825
    LT1 	FWD 	2.4L I4 	Auto 	26 mpg 	$22,715
    LT2 	FWD 	2.4L I4
    3.6L V6 	Auto 	26 mpg 	$25,175
    LTZ 	FWD 	2.4L I4
    3.6L V6 	Auto 	26 mpg 	$26,955
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Regular Cab Pickup Truck
    Work Truck 78.7" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8
    4.3L V6 	Auto
    Auto 	17 mpg 	$20,850
    Work Truck 97.8" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8
    4.3L V6 	Auto
    Auto 	17 mpg 	$21,240
    Work Truck 78.7" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8
    4.3L V6 	Auto
    Auto 	15 mpg 	$24,090
    Work Truck 97.8" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8
    4.3L V6 	Auto
    Auto 	15 mpg 	$24,390
    LT 78.7" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	16 mpg 	$26,810
    LT 97.8" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	16 mpg 	$26,935
    LT 78.7" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	15 mpg 	$29,785
    LT 97.8" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	15 mpg 	$30,085
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Extended Cab Pickup Truck
    Work Truck 78.7" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8
    4.3L V6 	Auto
    Auto 	17 mpg 	$25,395
    Work Truck 97.8" 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$27,435
    LS 78.7" 	RWD 	4.8L V8 	Auto 	16 mpg 	$28,140
    LT 78.7" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8
    6.2L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	16 mpg 	$29,125
    Work Truck 78.7" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	15 mpg 	$29,475
    LT 97.8" 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$30,235
    Work Truck 97.8" 	4WD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$30,585
    LS 78.7" 	4WD 	4.8L V8 	Auto 	15 mpg 	$31,290
    LT 78.7" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8
    6.2L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	15 mpg 	$32,275
    LT 97.8" 	4WD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$33,380
    LTZ 78.7" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    6.2L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$35,280
    LTZ 97.8" 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$35,580
    LTZ 78.7" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    6.2L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$38,430
    LTZ 97.8" 	4WD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$38,730
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Pickup Truck
    Work Truck 69.3" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	16 mpg 	$29,375
    LS 69.3" 	RWD 	4.8L V8 	Auto 	16 mpg 	$30,360
    LT 69.3" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8
    6.2L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	16 mpg 	$31,465
    Work Truck 69.3" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	15 mpg 	$32,525
    XFE 69.3" 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	18 mpg 	$33,225
    LS 69.3" 	4WD 	4.8L V8 	Auto 	15 mpg 	$33,510
    LT 69.3" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    4.8L V8
    6.2L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	15 mpg 	$34,615
    LTZ 69.3" 	RWD 	5.3L V8
    6.2L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$38,625
    LTZ 69.3" 	4WD 	5.3L V8
    6.2L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$41,775
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Hybrid 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Hybrid Crew Cab Pickup Truck
    Base w/1HY 69.3" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	21 mpg 	$38,340
    Base w/1HY 69.3" 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	21 mpg 	$41,490
    Base w/2HY 69.3" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	21 mpg 	$44,670
    Base w/2HY 69.3" 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	21 mpg 	$47,820
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Regular Cab Pickup Truck
    Work Truck 97.8" 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$27,465
    LT 97.8" 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$30,260
    Work Truck 97.8" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$30,615
    LT 97.8" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$33,410
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Extended Cab Pickup Truck
    Work Truck 78.9" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$29,895
    Work Truck 97.8" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$29,940
    LT 78.9" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$32,905
    LT 97.8" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$32,950
    Work Truck 78.9" 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$33,045
    Work Truck 97.8" 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$33,090
    LT 78.9" 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$36,055
    LT 97.8" 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$36,100
    LTZ 78.9" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$38,190
    LTZ 97.8" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$38,235
    LTZ 78.9" 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$41,340
    LTZ 97.8" 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$41,385
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Crew Cab Pickup Truck
    Work Truck 78.9" 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$31,345
    Work Truck 97.8" 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$31,390
    Work Truck 78.9" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$34,495
    Work Truck 97.8" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$34,540
    LT 78.9" 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$35,015
    LT 97.8" 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$35,060
    LT 78.9" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$38,160
    LT 97.8" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$38,205
    LTZ 78.9" 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$40,210
    LTZ 97.8" 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$40,255
    LTZ 78.9" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$43,360
    LTZ 97.8" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$43,405
    2011 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2011 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Crew Cab Pickup Truck
    Base 78.9" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T 	Auto 	N/A 	$26,595
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD Regular Cab Pickup Truck
    Work Truck 97.8" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$27,685
    LT 97.8" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$30,200
    Work Truck 97.8" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$31,510
    Work Truck 97.8" dual rear wheels 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$32,090
    LT 97.8" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$34,025
    LT 97.8" dual rear wheels 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$35,015
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD Extended Cab Pickup Truck
    Work Truck 97.8" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$30,975
    Work Truck 97.8" dual rear wheels 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$31,590
    LT 97.8" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$33,525
    Work Truck 97.8" 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$34,120
    LT 97.8" dual rear wheels 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$34,270
    Work Truck 97.8" dual rear wheels 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$34,740
    LT 97.8" 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$36,675
    LT 97.8" dual rear wheels 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$37,420
    LTZ 97.8" 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$38,595
    LTZ 97.8" dual rear wheels 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$38,750
    LTZ 97.8" 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$41,745
    LTZ 97.8" dual rear wheels 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$41,900
    2010 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD Crew Cab Pickup Truck
    Work Truck 97.8" 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$32,335
    Work Truck 97.8" dual rear wheels 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$32,645
    LT 97.8" 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$34,590
    Work Truck 97.8" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$35,485
    Work Truck 97.8" dual rear wheels 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$35,795
    LT 97.8" dual rear wheels 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$36,515
    LT 97.8" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$37,740
    LTZ 97.8" 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$39,575
    LT 97.8" dual rear wheels 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$39,665
    LTZ 97.8" dual rear wheels 	RWD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$40,770
    LTZ 97.8" 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$42,725
    LTZ 97.8" dual rear wheels 	4WD 	6.6L V8 T
    6.0L V8 	Auto
    Auto 	N/A 	$43,920
    2010 Chevrolet Suburban 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Suburban SUV
    LS 1500 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	16 mpg 	$40,635
    LS 2500 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$42,245
    LS 1500 	4WD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$43,480
    LT 1500 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	16 mpg 	$44,145
    LS 2500 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$45,085
    LT 2500 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$45,735
    LT 1500 	4WD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$46,990
    LT 2500 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$48,580
    LTZ 1500 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	16 mpg 	$52,880
    LTZ 1500 	4WD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	N/A 	$55,625
    2010 Chevrolet Tahoe 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Tahoe SUV
    LS 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$37,280
    LS 	4WD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	16 mpg 	$41,340
    LT 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	17 mpg 	$42,130
    LT 	4WD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	16 mpg 	$44,980
    LTZ 	RWD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	16 mpg 	$50,765
    LTZ 	4WD 	5.3L V8 	Auto 	16 mpg 	$53,615
    2010 Chevrolet Tahoe Hybrid 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Tahoe Hybrid SUV
    Base 	RWD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	21 mpg 	$50,720
    Base 	4WD 	6.0L V8 	Auto 	20 mpg 	$53,525
    2010 Chevrolet Traverse 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2010 Chevrolet Traverse SUV
    LS 	FWD 	3.6L V6 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$29,224
    LS 	AWD 	3.6L V6 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$31,224
    LT1 	FWD 	3.6L V6 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$31,745
    LT1 	AWD 	3.6L V6 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$33,745
    LT2 	FWD 	3.6L V6 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$34,325
    LT2 	AWD 	3.6L V6 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$36,325
    LTZ 	FWD 	3.6L V6 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$37,985
    LTZ 	AWD 	3.6L V6 	Auto 	19 mpg 	$39,985
    2011 Chevrolet Volt 	Drivetrain 	Engine 	Trans. 	Fuel Econ. 	MSRP
    2011 Chevrolet Volt Sedan
    Base 	FWD 	1.4L I4 		N/A 	$40,000
    Step 1: Starting out &#8212;Why buy used?
    By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
    If you've decided to buy a used car, you've already made a smart decision. You can get a car that's almost as good as a brand-new one without paying for the depreciation that wallops new car buyers as soon as they drive the car off the lot. Even cars that are only a year old are 20-30 percent cheaper than brand-new cars.
    But there are other good reasons to buy a used car:
    * You'll save money on insurance.
    * Bigger bargains are possible for the smart used car shopper.
    * Used cars are more reliable today than ever before.
    * Some used cars are still under the factory warranty.
    * Most new carmakers now sell certified used cars, which include warranties.
    * The history of a used car can easily be traced using the vehicle identification number (VIN).
    * If you buy from a private party, the negotiation process is less stressful.
    Step 2: Choosing the right used car.
    By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
    At the beginning of the car-buying process, many people already know the car they want. But it's a good idea to stop right now and test your decision with this question: Will this car fit into my monthly budget? We'll explain how to determine what car you can afford in the next step. For now, make sure your choice isn't obviously exceeding your budget
    Step 3: Save money by buying second-tier cars.
    By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
    The value of a used car is based on its condition, mileage, reliability, performance and popularity. Of course you want a car that is reliable and performs well. But do you want the same used car everyone else wants? If so, you will pay a premium for it. In some cases, the only difference is the nameplate.
    Step 4: Research your prospective used car.
    By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
    You will find all the information you need to make an educated decision about what to buy on the Edmunds.com used car pages. The major topics are accessed by clicking the links to the left of the screen that list such information as prices, standard features, specs and safety, warranties, consumer discussions, photos and video and resale values.
    A helpful feature is "Car Ratings" which evaluates the different components of the vehicle. You can also read reviews of the car by current owners. Finally, make sure you use True Cost to Own (TCO)® to see what other expenses you will incur (TCO data is not available for all cars).
    Another essential part of the used car pages is Edmunds.com's True Market Value (TMV®) pricing, a helpful guideline when car shopping. TMV pricing is based on sales figures of similar cars across the country. We will go into more detail about how to use Edmunds.com's TMV later.
    One last vital step to getting a great used car deal: Make sure you run a vehicle history report on any used car you are considering buying. Several companies sell these reports, which are based on the VIN, but AutoCheck and Carfax seem to be the most comprehensive.
    These reports can reveal vital information about the used car, including whether it has a salvage title (it has been declared a total loss by the insurance company) or if the odometer has been rolled back. This is also the time to decide if you want a Certified Used Car. If you do, see our article that describes the certified used vehicle programs offered by each manufacturer
    Used car shopping will involve inspecting the vehicle to determine its condition. This process is simplified if you buy a certified used car that has passed a thorough inspection and is backed by a manufacturer's warranty. But while buying a certified used car removes a lot of the guesswork about the vehicle's mechanical condition, you pay for this service.
    Most new cars are sold with a three-year/36,000-mile warranty. Therefore, if you buy a car that is from 1-3 years old, with fewer than 36,000 miles on the odometer, it will still be under the factory warranty.
    Step 5: How much can you afford?
    By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
    The smart shopper will consider how to finance the car at the beginning of the shopping process. This will avoid unpleasant surprises later on and help you make an informed decision that fits your budget.
    You should use our Affordability Calculator to help you come up with the figures you need to guide you as you go shopping:
    Monthly payment &#8212;If you are going to take out a loan, how much can you afford to pay each month?
    Down payment &#8212;How much cash can you put down to reduce your monthly payments?
    Purchase price of the car &#8212;Answering the first two questions will help you determine a realistic price range for your used car.
    Once you've determined how much you can spend for a down payment, a monthly payment and the purchase price of the car, print out these figures. Later, when you are negotiating for a used car, you might need to check this information to bring yourself back to earth
    Step 6: Set up financing for your used car.
    By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
    You have three ways to pay for your used car:
    Cash. Need we say more? Money talks &#8212;you-know-what walks.
    Financing through a bank, online lender or credit union &#8212;We highly recommend this route because it will usually save money and give you the most control over the transaction.
    Financing through the dealer &#8212;This can work for some people depending on their credit scores and the interest rates offered. Also, by prearranging financing through an independent source, the dealer may then try to beat the rate with a low-interest loan.
    Financing through an independent source (online lender, bank or credit union) offers several advantages:
    * Keeps negotiations simple in the dealership
    * Allows you to shop competitive interest rates ahead of time
    * Removes dependency on dealership financing
    * Encourages you to stick to your budgeted amount
    * Low-interest loans can be arranged online through
    Step 7: Where to shop for your used car.
    By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
    The three most common places to buy a used car are:
    * Private parties
    * The used car section of new car dealerships
    * Independent used car lots
    Of these sources, private parties usually have the most reasonable prices. It is also a more relaxed transaction to buy a used car from a private party than to face a salesman at a dealership.
    Still, there are advantages to buying a used car from a new car dealership. Many used cars, on new car lots, are trade-ins. Dealerships usually get these cars at rock-bottom prices. If you make a low offer &#8212;but one that gives them some profit &#8212;you just might get a great deal. Furthermore, many dealerships offer certified used cars that have been thoroughly inspected and are backed by strong warranties.
    Search for your car by using sites such as our Edmunds.com used vehicle listings or online classifieds such as Craigslist. Some sites are very flexible and allow you to search specific criteria such as make, model, options and price range. In some cases you can search the used car inventory of new car dealerships through their Web sites.
    While the Internet is an amazing resource, you should still try the conventional sources. Ask friends and relatives if they are selling a used car. Keep your eyes peeled for "For Sale" signs in car windows. Scan the bulletin boards at supermarkets or in local schools and colleges. Finally, don't forget old faithful &#8212;newspaper classifieds.
    Once you find a prospective car, call the seller before you go to see the vehicle. In this way, you can eliminate cars that have problems such as excessive mileage or a salvage title. Use our Used Car Question Sheet when calling to help prompt you to ask key questions. Verify the asking price in the ad.
    While talking to the seller, set up an appointment for a test-drive. If possible, make this appointment during the day so you can see the car in the daylight and more accurately determine its condition. Also, ask for the VIN so you can run a vehicle history report
    Used Car Question Sheet
    By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor and John DiPietro, Automotive Editor
    Dealership/Name of Owner:_________________________________
    Phone: _________ Make/Model: ____________________ Year: _____
    Mileage: ____________ Why Low? High?_________________________
    Exterior Color: _______________ Smog:______________________
    Interior Color: _________________ Leather: ________ Cloth: _______
    Number of doors: ______ Engine: _____________________
    Transmission: Auto: ______ Manual: ______
    Is there a salvage title? _______ Do you have the title: __________
    Are you the first owner? ____ Is it a trade in? ____ Lease return?____
    Have any major parts been replaced? _________________________
    Are any repairs needed? _______ Has it been in an accident?: _______
    Options/Add-ons: _____________________________________________
    Is there anything else I need to know: _______________________
    Asking price: _________________
    Step 8: Test-driving a used car.
    By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
    Test-driving a used car helps you decide if it is the right car for you and also if this particular car is in good condition. Once you get behind the wheel, ask yourself if it is a good fit. Does it offer enough headroom? Legroom? Are the gauges and controls conveniently positioned?
    Try to arrange your test-drive so that you start the engine when it is completely cold. Some cars are harder to start when they are dead cold and, when doing so, will reveal chronic problems. Turn off the radio before you begin driving &#8212;you want to hear the engine and concentrate on the driving experience.
    On the test-drive, evaluate these additional points:
    * Acceleration from a stop
    * Visibility (Check for blind spots)
    * Engine noise
    * Passing acceleration (Does it downshift quickly and smoothly?)
    * Hill-climbing power
    * Braking
    * Cornering
    * Suspension (How does it ride?)
    * Rattles and squeaks
    * Cargo space
    Take your time and be sure to simulate the conditions of your normal driving patterns. If you do a lot of highway driving, be sure to go on the highway and take the car up to 65 mph. If you go into the mountains, test the car on a steep slope. You don't want to find out &#8212;after you've bought the car &#8212;that it doesn't perform as needed.
    After the test-drive, ask the owner for the service records. See if the car has had the scheduled maintenance performed on time. Avoid buying a car that has been in a serious accident or has had major repairs such as transmission rebuilds, valve jobs or engine overhauls.
    If you like the way the car drives, you should still take it to a mechanic for a thorough inspection. A private party will probably allow you to do this without much resistance. But at a dealership, it might be more difficult. If it is a certified used car, there is no reason to take it to a mechanic.
    Step 9: Negotiating for a used car.
    By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
    Successful negotiation comes from having solid information. This is particularly true when buying a used car. Before beginning negotiations you should look up the Edmunds.com TMV price and print out the figures.
    Dealers have lots of experience negotiating. Most private parties do not. Therefore, buying a used car from a dealer or a private party will be two very different experiences.
    Follow these guidelines when negotiating:
    * Only enter into negotiations with a salesperson with whom you feel comfortable.
    * Make an opening offer that is low, but in the ballpark.
    * Decide ahead of time how high you will go and leave when your limit's reached.
    * Walk out &#8212;this is your strongest negotiating tool.
    * Be patient &#8212;plan to spend an hour negotiating in a dealership, less for private parties.
    * Leave the dealership if you get tired or hungry.
    * Don't be distracted by pitches for related items such as extended warranties or anti-theft devices.
    * A "closer" (a high-pressure salesman) may try to improve the deal before you reach a final price.
    Once you have a deal, make sure the transaction is completed properly. The next section will tell you what to expect and what you need to do.
    Step 10: Closing the deal.
    By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
    If you are at a dealership, you still have to go through the finance and insurance (F&I) process. If you are buying a car from a private party, you just have to make sure that payment is made and the title and registration are properly transferred.
    In both cases, you also need to make sure you have insurance for the car you just bought before you drive it away. Also, the F&I person will probably try to sell you a number of additional items: an extended warranty, alarms or anti-theft services such as LoJack, prepaid service plans, fabric protection, rust-proofing and emergency roadside kits. Some people want the peace of mind that comes with extended warranties, so this is something you might want to consider (unless your used car is certified or still under the manufacturer's warranty). However, the other items typically sold in the F&I room are expensive and hold little value for you.
    The F&I person may seem like a financial advisor, but he or she is really an experienced salesperson. Some F&I people can become very persistent trying to sell these items. Be firm.
    Once the contract is ready, review it thoroughly. In most states, it will contain the cost of the vehicle, a documentation fee, a smog fee, a small charge for a smog certificate, sales tax and license fees (also known as DMV fees). Make sure you understand the charges and question the appearance of any significant, sudden additions to the contract.
    Finally, if any repair work is required and has been promised by the dealer, get it in writing in a "Due Bill." Make sure the temporary registration has been put in the proper place and you're finally on your way.
    When you buy a car from a private party, you will probably be asked to pay with a cashier's check or in cash. But before money changes hands, request the title (sometimes called the pink slip) and have it signed over to you. Rules governing vehicle registration and licensing vary from state to state. Check the registry's Web site in your state.
    Once all of the paperwork is complete, it is finally time to relax and begin enjoying your new purchase: a good used car.
    Pros and cons of buying a used car
    Determine whether a used car is right for you
    Used vehicles are often the best values you'll find in the automotive market. This is especially so for late-model ones. Not only is the price lower than a comparable new car, but ownership expenses such as collision insurance and taxes are lower, and a used vehicle has already taken its biggest hit in depreciation. In addition, buying used is often a way to get a better-equipped vehicle than you'd be able to afford new.
    But buying a used vehicle is an exercise in finding the right balance of value and risk. Following are some issues to consider.
    Reliability
    One thing that has made used cars more appealing is their improved reliability. In a analysis of Consumer Reports annual subscriber surveys from 1980 through 2000, we found that the reliability of vehicles had vastly improved. Reported problems declined to a fraction of what they were in 1980. Rust and exhaust-system problems, once common, are now no longer a major concern. As a result, buying a late-model used vehicle is not as much of a risk as it used to be. When properly maintained, today's vehicles should easily go well past 100,000 miles, and many could reach 200,000 miles without a major breakdown.
    Warranties and repairs
    Although used cars are more reliable than ever, maintenance and repair costs are important considerations.
    In the first two or three years of a car's life, it has fewer problems and is typically covered by a comprehensive warranty. A used car, on the other hand, is either close to coming off warranty or already off it.
    This means that owners will have to pay for repairs out of pocket, but most costs will probably go to replace parts like tires, brakes, or a battery—high-wear items that often aren't covered by a warranty anyway. The expense of replacing all of them, if necessary, would still be relatively modest considering the overall savings from buying a used vehicle.
    There is always the risk that you'll buy a lemon. Even a car with a great reliability history can be a risky proposition if it was abused by a previous owner or if previous damage has been hidden. By giving the car a careful inspection yourself and having the vehicle thoroughly inspected by a qualified mechanic, you can usually get a good idea of the car's value.
    Depreciation
    A major disadvantage to buying a new car is the rapid depreciation it undergoes in the first few years. Models typically lose about 55 percent of their value in the first three years, compared with 20 percent over the next three. But this varies greatly among models. The 2006 BMW 3 Series, for example, has held its value relatively well (about 44 percent depreciation over the first three years), while the 2006 Ford Crown Victoria has depreciated rapidly (about 67 percent).
    Several factors determine depreciation, including the model's popularity, perceived quality, supply, and whether or not the vehicle is of the current design. The average depreciation on a $27,500 vehicle leaves little more than $15,000 after three years, a huge hit in residual value.
    Interest rates
    Loans for new cars typically have a lower interest rate, but the difference is often not a major concern. In March 2009 the rates for a 36-month new-car loan was about 6.8 percent, according to Bankrate.com; a 36-month used-car loan was about 7.5 percent. These two rates are often within just one percentage point of each other, and the additional interest you pay on a used-car loan adds only about $7 to $15 on a monthly loan payment.
    Insurance
    You'll typically pay less to insure a used vehicle than a new version of the same vehicle. Insurer USAA quoted a New York policyholder with a good driving record $441 for a six-month policy on a three-year old Honda CR-V EX and $483 for a new CR-V, which would equal $84 in annual savings.
    Safety
    Buying a used car means you won't have the latest safety features. Newer features such as electronic stability control (ESC), head-protecting curtain air bags, LATCH child-seat restraints, and advanced frontal air-bag systems are harder to find on older vehicles. But a vehicle with more common safety features such as antilock brakes, traction control, and side air bags will be more affordable on a used car than on a similarly equipped new car.
    If you can accept a reliable vehicle that is in less-than-mint condition and you're willing to pay for maintenance and repair costs, your dollars will go further when buying a used car rather than a new one.
    How to spot a lemon
    Finding a trouble-free used car has nothing to do with luck and everything to do with applying good research and investigative skills. Knowing how to spot potential problems and determining how reliable a used vehicle is can save you from expensive automotive headaches down the road. The following advice can help you determine whether a used vehicle is a good value or potential trouble.
    1. Check the reliability record.
    A good way to reduce the risk of purchasing a trouble-prone vehicle is to select models with a good reliability record before you begin shopping. Consumer Reports' annual subscriber survey provides exclusive real-world reliability information that can help you narrow your selections. See Best and worst used cars  for a quick-reference list of the best and worst used cars from our most recent survey. Also read the reliability-history charts that accompany most of CR's vehicle profiles to get a more detailed view at how specific models have held up in 17 trouble areas as well as overall.
    2. Read the window sticker.
    The Federal Trade Commission requires dealers to post a Buyer's Guide in every used vehicle offered for sale. Usually attached to a window, it must contain certain information, including whether the vehicle is being sold "as is" or with a warranty, and what percentage of repair costs (if any) the dealer is obligated to pay. The Guide information overrides any contrary provisions in your sales contract. In other words, if the Guide says that the vehicle is covered by a warranty, the dealer must honor that warranty. If any changes in coverage are negotiated, the Guide must be altered to reflect them before the sale.
    If a sale is designated "as is," it means that the dealer makes no guarantees as to the condition of the vehicle, so any problems that arise after you have made the purchase will be your responsibility. Many states do not allow as-is sales on vehicles selling for more than a certain price.
    3. Check the exterior.
    Begin by doing a walk around of the car, looking for dents, chipped paint, mismatched body panels or parts, broken lamp housings, and chipped windows. Gaps between body panels should be of a consistent width and line up.
    A closer inspection can reveal paint overspray on chrome or rubber trim or in the vehicle's wheel wells. This is a telltale sign of body-panel repair.
    Test for the presence of body filler with a small magnet. If the magnet doesn't stick to the panel, the car may have filler under the paint (some vehicles with plastic or fiberglass panels, however, won't attract a magnet at all). A door, hood, or trunk that doesn't close and seal properly is evidence of previous damage and/or sloppy repair work. A CAPA (Certified Automotive Parts Association) sticker on a body panel means the part has been replaced. Inconsistent welds around the hood, doors, or trunk also indicate repair.
    4. Check the interior.
    A long look into the cabin can reveal many obvious problems, such as a sagging headliner, cracked dashboard, and missing knobs, handles, and buttons. Frayed seat belts or ones with melted fibers (because of friction) may be evidence of a previous frontal impact above 15 mph--damaged safety belts should always be replaced.
    Prematurely worn pedals or a sagging driver's seat are signs that the vehicle has very high mileage. An air bag warning light that stays lit may indicate that a bag has deployed and been improperly replaced--or not replaced at all. A mildew smell, caused by a water leak, can be very hard to get rid of. Discolored carpeting, silt in the trunk, or intermittent electrical problems may be signs of flood damage.
    5. Check under the hood.
    At first glance, the engine, radiator, and battery should be relatively grease-free and have very little or no corrosion. Belts and hoses should be pliable and unworn. Look for wet spots, which can indicate leaking oil or fluids. Melted wires, tubes, or lines, or a blackened firewall may be signs of overheating or even an engine fire.
    With the engine cool, insure that all fluids are clean, filled to the proper level, and do not have leaks. Check the engine oil while the engine is cool. Remove the dipstick from its tube and clean it with a dry rag, reinsert it and remove it again. The oil level should be between the "full" and "add" marks. Normal engine oil is brown or black, depending on when it was last changed. Gritty or gelatinous oil may indicate long stretches between oil changes. Thin, frothy oil that's the color of chocolate milk may point to a blown head gasket or to a severely damaged block or cylinder head. Fine metal particles in the oil indicate internal damage or heavy wear.
    The transmission fluid dipstick is usually located in the rear of the engine compartment. Check it right after the car has been driven for more than 10 minutes. With the engine at idle and both the brake and parking brake applied, shift through all the gears. Leave the engine running and put it in neutral or park (according to the owner's manual) and check the level in relation to the dipstick marks. Also inspect the fluid's condition. The transmission fluid should be bright red to light reddish brown, not dark brown, black, or mustard colored; those colors can indicate serious problems. If it has a strong burned smell, that can indicate severe wear.
    6. Check the tires.
    Wear should be even across the width of the tread and the same on the left and right sides of the car. Tires that are frequently used while over-inflated tend to have more wear in the middle; tires driven while under-inflated tend to wear more on the sides. Heavy wear on the outside shoulder near the sidewall of the tire indicates a car that has been driven hard. This can be a sign that other parts of the car may suffer from excessive wear due to aggressive driving. Cupped tires, those that have worn unevenly along the tread's circumference, can indicate various problems with the steering, suspension, or brakes.
    7. Check the steering.
    With the car idling, turn the steering wheel right and left. Check that there isn't any slack or "play," or clunking noise in the steering. Excess play may indicate a worn steering gear or damaged linkage.
    While driving at normal speeds on smooth, flat pavement, the car shouldn't wander or need constant steering corrections. A shaking steering wheel often indicates a need for a wheel balancing or front-end alignment, which are easily remedied. However, this may also be a clue that there's a problem with the driveline, suspension, or frame, which could mean expensive repairs are in order.
    8. Check the suspension.
    Check the suspension by pushing down hard on each fender and letting go. The car should rebound softly, once or twice. More than two severe rebounds indicate worn shock absorbers or struts. Also, drive the car over a bumpy road at about 30 mph. A car that bounces and slams at moderate speeds over common pavement may have a worn or damaged suspension.
    9. Check the tailpipe.
    A puff of white smoke upon start-up is probably the result of condensation and not a cause for alarm. Black smoke after the car has warmed up indicates an overly rich air-fuel mixture--usually due to a dirty air filter, a faulty oxygen sensor, or mass-air meter (which measures the amount of intake air). Blue smoke indicates oil burning--a bad sign, requiring expensive repairs. Billowing white smoke indicates water in the combustion chamber, usually because of a blown head gasket, damaged cylinder head, or even a cracked block--all expensive repairs.
    10. Step on the gas.
    While driving, does the engine rev excessively before the car accelerates? This is a common sign of a misadjusted or worn-out clutch, or a damaged automatic transmission. A clutch adjustment is a relatively inexpensive service, but a damaged clutch or automatic-transmission repair can be extremely expensive.
    Listen for knocks and pings while accelerating. These indicate bad ignition timing or an engine beginning to overheat.
    11. Check for recalls and TSBs.
    Check to see if any recalls were issued and if recall service was performed. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (nhtsa.dot.gov; 800-424-9393) lists all official recalls. Ask the seller for documentation on recall service. If any recall work has not been performed on a car that you're considering, it should be done as soon as possible. Automakers are required to perform recall service free of charge, regardless of the vehicle's age or how long ago the recall was issued.
    Technical Service Bulletins, or "TSBs," are reports a manufacturer sends its dealers about common or recurring problems with a specific model, and how to rectify them. Because TSBs aren't typically safety related, manufacturers are not obligated to notify owners or pay for the repairs, though an automaker may pay for some or all of the work--if an owner asks them to. Lists of TSBs can be found at nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/index.cfm. Check for any TSBs that were issued for the model you're buying and if the seller had any necessary repairs performed.
    12. Check the vehicle's history.
    A vehicle-history report from CarFax (carfax.com) or Experian Automotive (autocheck.com) can alert you to possible odometer fraud; reveal past fire, flood, and accident damage; or tell you if a rebuilt or salvage title has ever been issued for the vehicle. To access this information, provide the vehicle identification number, or "VIN," which is on the top of the dashboard, near the driver's side roof pillar. Reports should cost $15 and the process takes about five minutes. (CarFax's Web site provides Consumer Reports' advice and information on buying used cars.)
    13. Visit a mechanic.
    Before you buy a used vehicle, have it inspected by a qualified mechanic that routinely does automotive diagnostic work. A thorough diagnosis should cost around $120. An organization called the Car Care Council (carcare.org) certifies diagnostic shops. If you're an American Automobile Association (AAA) member, you could use one of the organization's recommended facilities.
    In addition to doing the basic diagnostic, ask the mechanic to put the vehicle on a lift and inspect the undercarriage. Kinked structural components and large dents in the floor pan or fuel tank can indicate a past accident. Welding on the frame suggests a damaged section might have been replaced or cut out during repairs. Have the mechanic look for fresh undercoating, which can be used to hide recent structural repairs.
    A dealer should have no problem lending you the car to have it inspected as long as you leave identification. A private seller may be more reluctant, however. You should offer to follow the seller to the shop where the inspection will take place
    Where to shop for a used car
    You can buy a used vehicle from a much wider range of outlets than a new vehicle. Prices can vary greatly, but so can the quality of the car. Following are the typical outlets for buying a used car. To find them, check the classified ads in local newspapers and specialty auto-selling publications, as well as those on Web sites specializing in used-car sales.
    New-car dealers. Nearly all franchised dealers have a used-car department that sells vehicles they have taken as trade-ins, bought at auction or from another dealer, or that have come back at the end of a lease. These departments tend to feature late-model vehicles, two or three years old, that often carry the remains of the original factory warranty. Many new-car dealers don't bother with cars more than four or five years old, or ones that are difficult to sell, so their used vehicles tend to be expensive.
    Auto superstores. Superstores are dealerships with huge lots and scores of cars to sell. CarMax, for instance, is a superstore chain that sells cars at no-haggle prices. There are also independent dealerships that call themselves superstores. Whether they specialize in low-pressure, one-price selling or want you to bargain the old-fashioned way, their advantage is the quantity and variety of the stock.
    Independent used-car dealers. These dealerships are apt to handle any car make, and the vehicles can run the gamut from the almost-new to the junker-in-waiting. Some dealers specialize in late-model cars, and can be affiliated with a franchised new-car dealer. If the dealership has been around for a long time and has a good reputation locally, that's a good sign. As with new cars, many used-car dealerships can arrange financing for you. Still, caution is the watchword. Both price and quality tend to be lower than at a new-car dealership.
    Service stations. Many service stations have a sideline business selling used cars. They may not have all that many cars to sell, but prices are often better than those you'll find at a dealership. If the station has serviced the car throughout its life, you may have access to the repair history--a real plus. But take it somewhere else to have an impartial inspection performed.
    Private owners. You can usually get the best price if you buy a car directly from its previous owner. A private party doesn't have to cover the overhead of a business and frequently just wants to get rid of the vehicle. A private owner, however, may not be aware of trouble signs that a dealership or service station would recognize. Conversely, many rebuilt wrecks are sold through private sellers. Again, having a thorough, independent mechanical inspection performed is critical.
    Shopping online. Buying—or at least researching—used cars online opens up a world of possibilities. Its major advantage is your ability to search, sort, and check the marketplace without leaving home. Used cars aren't necessarily cheaper online, but the Web does provide an easy way to find out the price for which various models are selling in your area. You may find, however, that many offerings are located inconveniently far from home.
    Used-car Web sites typically ask you to fill in some search parameters: the make and model in which you're interested, your price range, and the region (usually based on your ZIP code) where you'd like to shop. Try to limit your search to the area within which you're willing to travel to inspect a vehicle. You then get a list of vehicles that fit your buying criteria, along with the sellers' e-mail addresses or phone numbers. Because many sellers are car dealerships, most sites provide direct links to the dealerships' Web sites. Many services also let you place a classified ad for selling your old car, either free or for a small fee.
    Online auctions (eBay Motors is by far the largest) are another route. The auction system is a little different from standard dickering over price. On eBay, once you enter a bid, it's like signing a contract to buy, whether there's a reserve or not. The buyer is obligated by the bid, and the seller is obligated to accept it. If there is a reserve, this price must be met before the auction can close. But if no one comes close to the reserve, the seller can remove it. While that means you can snap up a bargain, it also means that you can't get out of the deal unless the seller has made some serious misrepresentation. There is, however, a conditional guarantee by the seller and a short-term service agreement of one month or 1,000 miles. You can arrange to have the vehicle inspected through a paid service on the site.
    Problems we've noticed with used-car Web sites include outdated information and the clutter of pop-up and banner ads from other service providers. Sellers must constantly update their Web offerings as inventories change. If they don't, the sites grow stale and inaccurate. That can make locating even common models a challenge. Always call before visiting any seller, whether it's a dealership or a private party, to make sure the vehicle you're looking for is still available.
    No matter how much of the transaction you conduct by phone or e-mail, it's important to inspect the vehicle in person and take it for a test drive before you buy.
    10 keys to getting a great deal
    How to buy a used car for the best price
    There's a lot more to getting a good deal than simply haggling with the salesperson or private seller. Being prepared with the right information, doing your homework, and negotiating from an informed perspective can all translate into money saved in the end. Here are 10 tips from Consumer Reports' auto experts for getting the best price on any used car.
    1. Know the value of the vehicle.
    You should know the value of your candidate car, regardless of what the seller is asking. To do that, you'll need to find what similar cars are selling for. Condition, mileage, age, equipment levels, and the region all affect the value of a used vehicle.
    Lots of sources provide used-car price information. Kelley Blue Book, Edmund's, and the National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) provide pricing information on their Web sites and in printed guides. These sources give price ranges by year and trim line, with adjustments for options, mileage, and sometimes region.
    Another tool you can use is the Consumer Reports Used Car Price Service. It helps you determine the right price, whether you're buying or selling, and includes detailed reliability information for most models and buying advice from CR's auto experts.
    2. Check with several price sources.
    Different price guides list different "book" values. Kelly Blue Book, the NADA guide, Edmunds, and the CR Used Car Price Report are all pricing sources, but we found that prices vary on each of them when researching the price for a specific vehicle.
    Auto dealers have been known to play games with those price guides. They'll show you one guide, whose prices are on the high end of the spectrum, to indicate the cost of the cars they have for sale. Then they'll whip out another guide with lower values to tell you what your trade-in is worth.
    You can avoid that high-ball/low-ball game if you see it coming. Most guides have listings for both retail and trade-in (wholesale) prices. Ask the salespeople to use one book or the other if they're going to use published price guides at all.
    3. Determine the local value.
    Regardless of what a car's "average" selling price may be, supply and demand will affect the price in your area. To know what a car is worth in your area, check out local classified-ad publications and newspapers. Internet used-car sites can also help you compare prices both within your locality and across the country.
    In some cases, it may be worth it to look outside your home area. Prices may vary by thousands of dollars from place to place. The main drawback to going far afield to buy a car is that the vital personal-inspection step probably means trekking to wherever the car is located, perhaps more than once.
    4. Ask the right questions.
    Before you make a trip to see a car that's been advertised, call the seller for information. Whether it's a dealer or a private party, you want to be sure the car is still available, and you'll want to fill in any missing information.
    Ask for details such as:
    * How many miles are on the odometer?
    * What features and options does it have?
    * What shape are the body, paint, trim, tires, and upholstery in?
    * Was it ever in a collision?
    * Was it driven by someone who smoked?
    * Are service records available?
    * Who was the primary driver and what did he/she use the car for?
    In asking these questions, you may pick up vital clues about the trustworthiness of the seller. If you get evasive answers or implausible information, that may tip you off to look elsewhere.
    5. Know your financing options.
    Unless you're paying cash, you should research your financing options. Compare interest rates at various financial institutions, such as banks, credit unions, and loan organizations. If you're buying from a dealership, compare its rates with the others. It's often an advantage to get pre-approved for a loan; if you're buying from a dealer, this keeps the financial arrangements out of the negotiating process. If you're buying from another source, they might negotiate more seriously if they know that you already have the money "in hand."
    Remember that the duration of the loan affects the monthly payment and total purchase price. A shorter loan means higher monthly payments, but less money paid overall. Many dealers will work with buyers who might be considered credit risks, but such a loan may have a higher interest rate.
    6. Know your trade-in value.
    If you're buying from a dealership, you may want to trade in your current car at the same time you buy the new one. Before you talk trade-in, though, you should have a general idea about how much it's worth. You can gauge the value of your trade-in the same way you researched the price of the new car, except that now you should focus on the used-car wholesale price instead of the retail price.
    Before going to the dealership, spend some time sprucing up the car to improve its curb appeal. If you feel the dealer is not offering you enough, you can always take your vehicle elsewhere or sell it yourself.
    7. Never negotiate under pressure.
    Salespeople's favorite customers are those who seem to be in a rush, since they tend to be the ones that do not inspect the car thoroughly, buy a more expensive car than they set out to, or don't negotiate down the price. Never go to a dealership acting hurried, even if you need new wheels immediately. They'll assuredly take advantage of it.
    Many salespeople assure you that they won't pressure you into buying, but they usually do it anyway. For instance, they might tell you that someone else is very interested in the same car and is coming by later to look at it--a common sales tactic. Even if it is true, you should never feel that you have to make any deal immediately; there's always other cars out there.
    8. Haggle the price like a pro.
    No matter whom you're buying from, you can expect some dickering. Even if the seller says the price is non-negotiable, offer less. Use local classified ads and price-guide data for similar cars to illustrate the fairness of your offer.
    Begin by offering less than what you're willing to pay and move up from there. Don't be shy; mention any flaws or equipment problems to justify your lower offer.
    State your final offer clearly, say nothing more, and see what happens. If the seller won't budge, walk away. Remember, you shouldn't pay more than what your homework has told you the vehicle is worth. If you head for the door, you'll often have a deal you can live with before you reach it.
    9. Deduct repair costs from your offer.
    A low price is no bargain if the vehicle's not in good condition. When you've located a car you're serious about buying, conduct a thorough inspection. If you're not so confident about gauging a car's condition yourself, bring a knowledgeable friend with you to help inspect the car.
    You should also have an independent mechanic perform a diagnostic inspection of the vehicle for you. A dealer should have no problem lending you the car to have it inspected as long as you leave identification. A private seller may be more reluctant, however. Leave your own car as assurance you'll return, or offer to follow the seller to the shop where the inspection will take place.
    A thorough inspection will cost about $120 or so--which is money well spent if it uncovers any problems. If any problems are uncovered, you should cite your costs of making repairs to justify offering less.
    10. Don't pay for more car than you need.
    When looking at popular models, there are often a number of vehicles from which to choose. A car that's loaded with extra features and options can cost you much more than the same car with less equipment. Decide what features you really need and which you can do without.
    Try to gauge the value of the model, equipped the way you want, and then try to stick to that price even if you're looking at a better-equipped version. If sales interest is slow, the seller may come down to your price. Be wary of customized cars. Thousands of dollars poured into cosmetic or performance improvements may not be worthwhile for you and may even hurt the vehicle's driveability
    What about used-car leasing?
    Used-car leasing is a small segment of the used-car market, but with modest payments and the ability to lease &#8220;certified”used cars, leasing a used car appeals to some people.
    All the benefits of leasing, such as comparatively low payments and hassle-free disposal, apply to a used-car lease as they do to a new-car lease. And since most of a leased car&rsquo;s monthly payment goes to anticipated depreciation, which is less severe as a car ages, monthly payments could be lower. The financial risk with a used-car lease, though, can be substantially greater.
    Leasing risks. Foremost is the chance of service problems. Consumer Reports&rsquo; reliability data suggest that on average, a three-year-old car has more than twice as many problems as a one-year-old car does. Bear in mind that any repairs you must make that are not covered by a warranty come out of your pocket, even though you do not own the car. For that reason, it&rsquo;s probably a good idea to purchase a comprehensive, bumper-to-bumper warranty for the full lease term.
    Another risk with used-car leasing is that it&rsquo;s difficult to predict what that car will be worth when it&rsquo;s, say, five years old. There is a great deal of variation in the five-year-old market. But that knowledge is necessary because your monthly payments hinge on its supposed retained value. If the dealer sets it too low, your payments will be higher than they need to be. If the dealer sets it too high, it gives the dealer latitude to push up the car&rsquo;s initial price while offering what seem to be acceptable monthly payments.
    The best vehicles to lease, therefore, are those that hold their value supremely well. Those tend to be luxury cars, sports cars, and some SUVs. As a result, used-car leasing has become largely the province of a handful of luxury makes such as BMW, Lexus, and Mercedes-Benz.
    Assuming a lease. It&rsquo;s not only car dealers who handle leases. Often a private party wants to get out of a lease early, and they look for someone willing to assume, or take over payments on, the lease. You can find lists of offerings on the Internet, where sites such as Swapalease.com and LeaseCompare.com act as brokerages where people looking for a lease assumption can see what&rsquo;s on offer. Frequently the original lessee offers a cash rebate, which effectively lowers the monthly payment on the vehicle.
    The benefit of lease-assumption is that you save the up-front fees, such as a down payment and other &#8220;due at inception”fees. Bear in mind, though, that when you assume someone else&rsquo;s lease you also assume their responsibilities. For instance, it&rsquo;s you who will have to pay for any existing damage, ”excess wear and tear,”or over-the-limit mileage charges at lease end.
    Tips for used-car leasing
    * If you are working with a dealer, bargain the price down as if you were buying the car.
    * Check that any warranty is comprehensive and lasts the duration of the lease.
    * Make sure you can live with the mileage limits spelled out in the lease contract. Over-limit miles can cost you 25 cents each.
    * Check the vehicle&rsquo;s history, which might reveal that the vehicle was in a major accident, wrecked and salvaged, or had its odometer rolled back. Vehicle-history reports are available for about $20 (or unlimited reports for $25) from two companies, CarFax  and Experian Automotive . Keep in mind, however, that a clean report doesn&rsquo;t guarantee that a vehicle doesn&rsquo;t have hidden problems.
    * Before signing the lease, have the vehicle inspected by a qualified mechanic, who can put the car on a lift for a full diagnostic check
    What is your car&rsquo;s value?
    Whether you sell or trade in your current vehicle, it's important to know its current cash value. If you decided to trade in your current car, expect to get something close to its wholesale value after taking all variables (option, mileage, condition, and so on) into consideration. Some dealerships will try to give you less money for it so they can make more profit when they resell it.
    If you sell the vehicle yourself, you will usually be able to get a price that's higher than the wholesale price, but you may not be able to get the full retail value.
    In addition to finding your car's book value and researching what other people are asking for their cars, it's a good idea to get quotes from some dealerships. This lets you find an easily obtainable, rock bottom price before you begin negotiating.
    Start by making your car presentable and take it to the used-car department of several local dealerships. Ask what they would give you in a straight-out sale. That will be the minimum to expect if you trade your car in. There's another advantage to having this information: If you're being lowballed on your trade-in, you can always simply refuse the offer and sell your vehicle to the dealer who gives you a better quote.
    If you sell your car, your final price will probably be above what the used-car departments offered but below the highest asking prices you found. Once you're armed with the vehicle's true value, you can negotiate with confidence instead of unknowingly accepting less.
    For more information on trading in, selling a used car and getting more for your old car, see our new car buying guide.

Brown & Brown Chevrolet Hyundai

1400 Locke Drive

Bourbonnais, IL 60914

Phone: (815) 401-4748

Email: Contact Us

Fax: (815) 933-9710

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